Sunday, June 28, 2009
Five Hours at Double Negative - Mormon Mesa, Nevada
The directions on the Internet are very difficult to decipher - we ended up in the wrong location several times. As soon as we put down the map and used common sense by following the rim of the mesa, we found the earthwork. If someone ever writes "less traveled road" as a choice to follow, you are screwed. All the roads are less traveled - just don't drive off the cliff in the process. There could have been a Thelma and Louise repeat here. Be very careful (and bring lots of water). Also, we never found any sand on the road, an oft described feature of the drive to this earthwork. All the sand was located in the sculpture and we didn't even need a four wheel drive for this portion of our trip.
It was over 100 degrees and we somehow managed to spend five hours out in the heat, taking several breaks in the car to chug water and soak up the A/C. Hello sunburns on top of sunburns - we wore 55 sunblock and still were scorched as we kept sweating it off.
There is no way we could ever know what this work is like without being there. The scale is so vast and unable to be described in photographs, it needs to be experienced in person. Forty years after this sculpture was created, the degradation does not affect the monumentality. It is incredible and unlike any of the earthworks we've seen thus far. The space in between both cuts is like it's own artwork - sand falling down the cliffs with sagebrush clinging to survive. Upon climbing down the SW cut, we encountered lizards and bottle rockets (no snakes).
After seeing erosion and time at play in Bryce Canyon, this was a very different experience to see the striated rocks blown from the crevasses. The main element of passing time are the rocks that have fallen since 1969 and now cover the ground inside the sculpture. One does not think of the elements of destruction when viewing photographs of Double Negative but that is an important aspect when visiting in person.
On our way out, we encountered an installation whose text encouraged us to protect the land. After viewing Heizer's piece, we felt a reminder of humanity's destruction upon the environment and each other. Our only regret is that we were not able to drive to the other side and view the NE cut and see the space where we spent most of our day contemplating from the other side.
Overton, Nevada Best Western Room 122
Nancy spotted four bugs on both the wall and the floor during our stay in Overton. Again, thank goodness we only had three hours sleep and forgot to notice. We took over the bedroom and hallway with the tulle and they loaned us their screwdriver (they didn't have a hammer) to puncture our cans.
Friday, June 26, 2009
ED RUSCHA GIVES US HIS AUTOGRAPH AT BRYCE CANYON
Last night I had a dream that Nancy and I went to Bryce Canyon and we saw Ed Ruscha at one of the lookout points. I asked him if Nancy could take a photo of the two of us to post on our blog. The following morning Nancy and I practiced our daily ritual of dream analysis (previous discussion had revealed a dream Nancy had regarding a phone call from James Turrell’s gallery, eventually proving to be reality…details coming soon.) We decided that Ed Ruscha would make an appearance at Bryce Canyon; our goal was to find him.
After stopping at several different viewpoints, each of us unable to find even a close candidate, we nearly gave up. On our way back to the car from our last attempt, there he was climbing out of an SUV full of his family and friends straight from Southern California. After explaining our request for a photograph, he replied, “Oh that’s funny. My name is Ed Rolands.” His lawyer friend thankfully offered to take a photo, ultimately blurry as hell (Nancy never said that, she thought it was in focus.) Ed’s wife appears on the scene, replying to our project, “Oh does Perry look like Ed Ruscha?” Their friends inquiring if “Ed Ruscha looked like Brad Pitt?”
After backing the children away, Perry offered to give us Ed Ruscha’s autograph, we gladly accepted, Nancy running frantically to grab the blue pen and paper. Like true fans we almost passed out upon receiving this wonderful gift. Proving once again, dreams really can come true.
Dennis Hopper's portrait of Ed Ruscha from 1964
After stopping at several different viewpoints, each of us unable to find even a close candidate, we nearly gave up. On our way back to the car from our last attempt, there he was climbing out of an SUV full of his family and friends straight from Southern California. After explaining our request for a photograph, he replied, “Oh that’s funny. My name is Ed Rolands.” His lawyer friend thankfully offered to take a photo, ultimately blurry as hell (Nancy never said that, she thought it was in focus.) Ed’s wife appears on the scene, replying to our project, “Oh does Perry look like Ed Ruscha?” Their friends inquiring if “Ed Ruscha looked like Brad Pitt?”
After backing the children away, Perry offered to give us Ed Ruscha’s autograph, we gladly accepted, Nancy running frantically to grab the blue pen and paper. Like true fans we almost passed out upon receiving this wonderful gift. Proving once again, dreams really can come true.
Dennis Hopper's portrait of Ed Ruscha from 1964
BRYCE CANYON
Tip #001: We highly recommend wearing sunglasses when visiting Bryce Canyon because they really make the colors "pop."
SAGE BRUSH MOUSTACHES (LAST SUMMER JACINDA COULDN'T PUT DOWN THE SMALL PIECE OF SAGE BRUSH SHE HAD COLLECTED, FOR THREE DAYS SHE SMELLED "HOME". THIS SUMMER I PLANNED FOR HER TO STRAP IT ON INSTEAD OF HOLDING IT UNDER HER NOSE.)
HELL-MART IN CEDAR CITY, UTAH!!! JACINDA HAD NOT BEEN IN FOR OVER SEVEN YEARS. NANCY HAD ONLY BEEN IN BY FORCE OF SOME OTHER INFLUENCES (DESTIN VACATIONS). WE MADE OUR WAY OUT AND THERE IT WAS A TRUE MIRACLE. ONLY A FEW MINUTES AFTER WE HAD FOUND OUT M.J. HAD DIED. WHAT A DAY.
SAGE BRUSH MOUSTACHES (LAST SUMMER JACINDA COULDN'T PUT DOWN THE SMALL PIECE OF SAGE BRUSH SHE HAD COLLECTED, FOR THREE DAYS SHE SMELLED "HOME". THIS SUMMER I PLANNED FOR HER TO STRAP IT ON INSTEAD OF HOLDING IT UNDER HER NOSE.)
HELL-MART IN CEDAR CITY, UTAH!!! JACINDA HAD NOT BEEN IN FOR OVER SEVEN YEARS. NANCY HAD ONLY BEEN IN BY FORCE OF SOME OTHER INFLUENCES (DESTIN VACATIONS). WE MADE OUR WAY OUT AND THERE IT WAS A TRUE MIRACLE. ONLY A FEW MINUTES AFTER WE HAD FOUND OUT M.J. HAD DIED. WHAT A DAY.
Western Inn NEVER again! Panguitch, Utah
BURNED PANCAKES
....worst two sides of the street motel we’ve encountered yet, although it did not have bugs like tonight’s Best Western in Overton. We had called in advance to check our reservation and they asked again for my credit card number, which they already had on file, never sending an email confirmation (an issue that would continue to reveal itself throughout our stay). When we arrived we saw two people with their laptops in the lobby and as we walked to our room we saw people holding their laptops up to the windows in an attempt to get better reception.
We thought we had better take showers and start the laundry before tackling the blog. Before placing the dirty clothes into the washer we had noticed the out of order sign taped to the dryer. Nancy called the front desk to ask if they had another dryer on the other side of the street. The guy replied it was "the last room on the building." The question was which “last room” of the three buildings located on that side of the street.
After hauling over the load, Nancy hunted around the property finally finding a pitch black room with an unlocked door. Upon opening the door, a scurrying ruckus took place, quickly flipping the light on with the unfortunate result of FLICKER FLICKER. Suddenly the guy from behind the desk had arrived to help. Nancy flipped the light switch a couple of more times revealing a room with a large industrial dryer. The guy announced that it would be FREE, our patience wearing thin.
At that same moment Jacinda was back in the room attempting to connect to the wireless signal to no avail, reporting to Nancy upon arrival that we would be camped out in the lobby with the other two visiting Germans. (We had hoped this would not reflect poorly upon us as Americans.) Luckily they had returned to their room, freeing up the black leather 80’s love seat. We were finally told they had to lock up at 2 a.m. by the “upper level management.” Jacinda requesting five more minutes as we were in the middle of an upload. Ten minutes later we retrieved our laundry and moved the vehicle directly in front of the office door in order to continue till 3 a.m. the daily blog entry. We should have requested a discount especially after the personal wake-up call by another member of the hotel staff who was not informed of our presence in room 132, granted we were only in there for four hours.
....worst two sides of the street motel we’ve encountered yet, although it did not have bugs like tonight’s Best Western in Overton. We had called in advance to check our reservation and they asked again for my credit card number, which they already had on file, never sending an email confirmation (an issue that would continue to reveal itself throughout our stay). When we arrived we saw two people with their laptops in the lobby and as we walked to our room we saw people holding their laptops up to the windows in an attempt to get better reception.
We thought we had better take showers and start the laundry before tackling the blog. Before placing the dirty clothes into the washer we had noticed the out of order sign taped to the dryer. Nancy called the front desk to ask if they had another dryer on the other side of the street. The guy replied it was "the last room on the building." The question was which “last room” of the three buildings located on that side of the street.
After hauling over the load, Nancy hunted around the property finally finding a pitch black room with an unlocked door. Upon opening the door, a scurrying ruckus took place, quickly flipping the light on with the unfortunate result of FLICKER FLICKER. Suddenly the guy from behind the desk had arrived to help. Nancy flipped the light switch a couple of more times revealing a room with a large industrial dryer. The guy announced that it would be FREE, our patience wearing thin.
At that same moment Jacinda was back in the room attempting to connect to the wireless signal to no avail, reporting to Nancy upon arrival that we would be camped out in the lobby with the other two visiting Germans. (We had hoped this would not reflect poorly upon us as Americans.) Luckily they had returned to their room, freeing up the black leather 80’s love seat. We were finally told they had to lock up at 2 a.m. by the “upper level management.” Jacinda requesting five more minutes as we were in the middle of an upload. Ten minutes later we retrieved our laundry and moved the vehicle directly in front of the office door in order to continue till 3 a.m. the daily blog entry. We should have requested a discount especially after the personal wake-up call by another member of the hotel staff who was not informed of our presence in room 132, granted we were only in there for four hours.
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Center for Land Use Interpretation, Wendover Base (with live military action!)
HOW IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN
SHADE AND PINA COLADA PLEASE!
After calling L.A. for the entry code from the front porch of exhibition hall 1, we walked in to discover there was no show. BUT oh wait - THERE WAS! And that was unfortunate because the space was far more interesting than the display. I kept wondering (out loud) if this was where they shot the movie Heartbreak Ridge starring Clint Eastwood (one of my faves.) Too bad it wasn't because that would have been really cool for this blog. Let's just say was.
Greeted by the barks of two basset hounds who were outside with no shade, their chains carving circles into the dirt, and dog toy beyond reach, they were thrilled for our attention. It was the most engaging interaction especially when compared to the "man explorer" who was "roughing it" by eating out of cans, while sitting on his stool, outside his packed, geared up SUV. We were wondering what kind of deal he got on his studio/apartment. BUT never had the opportunity to ask over his refusal to respond to a friendly hello. I thought perhaps he could meet one of my single friends, seems how he was so lonely out there in the parking lot.
WENDOVER WILL
We pulled Harold over, he drifted down from the belt, gave us a full interview, and a dinner recommendation. We took it - and spent $17.00 each on two plates, one salad, one carnitas, a chocolate cake, a chocolate silk pie, and a custard filled cone. Surrounded by the mirrored ceilings, cigarette smoke, rainforest bird calls, and plush purple chairs with green trim, I guess we were paying for the ambiance.
We honked and waved at Harold on the way out of town as he worked away on Wendover Will.
CHECK IT OUT
NEW ADDITIONS INCLUDE:
Black, Blue and Pink (Spiral Jetty)
Jamz Turrell on James Turrell
Bonneville Salt Flats
A Couple of Things About Sun Tunnels
and be sure to check the comments!
Stay Tuned for Wendover Will, new videos, and hotel origami
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
A couple things about Sun Tunnels
Nancy and I arrived in Wendover, Utah in the late afternoon after spending significant time at the Bonneville Salt Flats. We jumped into the freezing hotel pool, ate an overpriced buffet at the Rainbow (note to self: buffet dinners at casinos are a waste of money for vegetarians), and drove rather quickly to Lucin, Utah as we were trying to arrive well before the setting sun. We encountered a very large puddle of water that Nancy promptly donned her moustache and Michael Heizer jacket to ford because "this is a man's job" and John Ott's "use common sense" was ringing in our ears. Fortunately it wasn't as deep as it looked (but the rental car suggested otherwise = whoops!).
I have had this vision of seeing how close we could drive to an earthwork since we started this trip and that was solved rather quickly upon our arrival - Sun Tunnels was the ideal candidate. Afterward, what we quickly found was disturbing. Someone within the last 24 hours had driven through the middle of the artwork and got stuck. Their solution was to use all of their car mats in an effort to provide traction to escape the deep pit they were quickly making in the soft earth. We are not sure how they escaped but they left all of their mats inside one of the tunnels, enough tire gouges to provide a distraction, and someone wrote in the mud in between the absent wheel base "Fuck Your Karma." HIGHLY ANNOYING.
The sun was quickly falling and we were frantically running around trying to photograph a burial and the general vicinity before stationing ourselves in the tunnels to see the setting sun. We were very happy that the sun did indeed fall in nearly the same location as it would have on the solstice two days earlier.
I set to work on a collection box and Nancy began filling the tire gouges in a performance of endurance - positioning dirt, removing the text written in the mud, and "cleaning up" the area to the best of her ability. About 20 minutes later, fatigued, she stopped. Unfortunately we didn't have large shovels to smooth over the rest of the earth.
We stayed well into the evening, catching a sliver of a moon setting in the western night sky and a planet we guessed was Venus (but that was just an assumption). There were a couple sound recordings - screams and whistle blowing. I tried very hard to deposit the rock I brought from Spiral Jetty on top of one of the concrete tubes but failed each time I tossed it over to hear it roll off the other side. In frustration, I hurled it into the middle of the tubes announcing, "It is now here" as soon as it fell. I don't know what compelled me to bring a piece of Robert Smithson to Nancy Holt - it resides in the mud that Nancy D. tried to fill and as a result, I brought a cracked, dried portion to bring to Double Negative - carrying a piece of one to the next. I will figure out where this is going but for now, I don't have an answer.
Seeing Sun Tunnels at the time it was meant to be viewed changed everything for me. Sitting down at the edge of the most westerly tube, catching my breath, and watching the sun dip below the horizon was an eye opener. Wishing we had more time to spend before night fell is my only regret.
We stopped along the road outside Montello, Nevada to stare at the Milky Way lying on the shoulder of the road watching a satellite fly overhead. I had not seen such a clear night sky with relatively little light pollution in years. I will take back the memory of the stars with me - though we did not see them inside Nancy Holt's tubes, we were able to experience the sunset and that was all that I needed to qualify visit this as a success.
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